Island Vacation...PC Style

So I scored a pretty sweet site for a Volunteer Visit (a 5-6 day adventure into the life of a real volunteer doing my job in a site that could be similar or absolutely nothing like what mine will be. I went to Valle Escondido on the Island of San Cristobal. (No, not quite Isla colon, but that is the nearest 'real town' to it) Yea, it was in the Caribbean. No, it was not the postcard picture of bright sandy beaches you would imagine. But they do have those within an hour of there, and this was a pretty sweet jungle machete adventure. But I get ahead of myself.

Some housekeeping first:
-Bad news bears on the mail front. Panama is going for first place in the suckstastic mail-athon, and it's probs gonna be awhile before I get anything. Apparently it takes 2 days for US mail to get to Panama City, and then another 2 months to get to the PC office like an hour away from the mail room. Ridiculous, I know. AND letters tend to be less reliable than packages. So...that's awesome. Apparently it is actually a bit better when I get a local mailing address, so I'll post that as soon as I get it, so hopefully I can get something before I have been here for 6 months. (This also means that Christmas/Birthday stuff should probs be sent like...early/mid October. Should be right around the time stores try to put up their decorations, haha). Also, I do not have access to a post office until July, when I move out to my site and have a 'local' address and post office.Right now with our training schedule we never have time during post office hours to travel the 2 hr bus ride each way to La Chorrera to send mail. Sorry!
-I do have a cell phone now. If you email or FB me about it, I will try to call you so that you can have my number, because I don't know what it is with all the country codes and such. ALSO it costs me like 6-8 cents a minute to talk to you, (keep in mind a 90 min bus ride is 30 cents and I get roughly $5 of free 'spending money' a week) BUT if you call me from Skype then it costs neither of us! Also, while I CAN text, it costs me roughly 50 cents a piece to text a person in the US. So...let's not do that. And my phone can only hold 20 texts in its inbox. And I can't figure out the Spanish menu well enough to setup or check my voice mail. Working, hold please. And it's a brick phone. No really, like circa 2006 brick phone. It cost me $18, haha.
-We had 2 more people ET. Both of them were in the Sustainable Agriculture program. One left because he didn't think he was outgoing enough to gel with a community and master the language and the other missed his family and friends too much. Because they were training in the other community, we didn't even find out until after they were out of the country. I wish them both the best with whatever comes next for them. And then there were 48.

And now, ladies and gentlemen, our feature presentation!

I crammed myself and my extraordinarily small amount of stuff for 6 days (boulder, a small black shoulder bag, and a life vest) into a 'White Stallion' (PC Land Rover) with 5 other 'aspirantes' (thats what they call trainees in Spanish, like aspiring. Its cute and positive) and we forged through the panama city traffic to get to the national bus terminal. This was 6pm on Wednesday, btw. By the time we got there and our stuff and stood in line for tickets, it was 6:40 and they would not let us get on the 6:45 bus to David. There were 11 of us that had to go so far for this visit that we could not do it in one day and therefore had to leave right from tech class on Weds night. So we got tickets for the next one...at 8:30pm, and headed across the street to the giant a/c'ed mall for dinner. Note: we're all carrying luggage for a few days in the campo and life vests. We weren't conspicuous at all. Totally blending in.

The bus was basically a really nice double decker Megabus. There was AC, a movie playing, and we each had our own seat. (A rarity in Panamanian travel) I didn't think it was possible to get cold in Panama, but apparently, about 5 hours into bus ride when your body is damp from previous sweat and trying to sleep, you can be. I was trying to snuggle in my towel, lol. We got to the city of David at 3:30AM and by the time we got our stuff, walked to the hotel and got ourselves assigned into rooms it was after 4. I took the first hot shower I have had since DC and passed out in a bed with a real mattress. It was SO exciting. Woke up at 7 to repack and grab food. Found out that Maggie and Seneca had the same bus route to their sites so we headed to the terminal and finally got our next bus. (This one much smaller, more like a passenger van with no AC nor movie, haha) It left at 9am and wove up through a mountain pass where it was actually like 70 some degrees. Loved it. Want to go back. Idk where I was, but I wanna go there. Got to Almirante at 1 and took a taxi to the boat dock. Left the boat dock at 1:30 headed for Bocas del Toro on Isla Colon where I met Tricia, my volunteer. She's pretty much totally awesome.

Because her boat driver doesn't leave Bocas to go back to her site until somewhere between 5-8pm, we spent the afternoon on a tiny beach near Bocas. It took us about 20 min of wandering til we found it, but then realized there was no where to change. So I wandered off into the swampy mud and hid behind trees to change my clothes while trying to balance on half sunken logs in this mud and not get the little sand crabs that kept popping up everywhere on myself or my clothes. I was successful and just in time. The beach police showed up like 10 mins after I made it back to the water. That would have been bad.

After an hour or so we returned to Bocas to buy groceries for the next few days and got in Willy's boat at 6, when he said he was leaving. At 7:30, the boat was finally full enough for us to leave...another fun round of Panamanian sardines. (BTW, these were all motor boats, not dug out canoes. While I did see many of those, I have not yet been in one) By the time we dropped off a bunch of people at a diff little town on Isla San Cristobal, it was just Tricia and I left. The boat turned into this gap in the trees and wandered this windy path. Keep in mind the sun is completely set in Panama by 7pm so this is DARK. It reminded me of going to Tia Dalma's house in Pirates 2. Very cool.

We got to the dock and I hopped out. Well, tried. I got both feet planted on the dock but forgot about the stupid life vest PC made us travel with in case our boats didn't have them (they all did) and the vest clotheslined me on a tie line of the boat. I did the matrix back bend with my backpack on nonetheless. The boat driver caught my hand and saved me from falling in the swampy mud water. Once firmly and completely ashore we followed a path for about 10 mins between glowing plank houses on stilts. It was very, very, cool to come across this place for the first time in the dark having no idea what lay beyond the path under my feet. (no sarcasm there either)

Making dinner in the dark without electricity in a place you have never been before gets frustrating quickly, but soon enough we had pasta and stir fried veggies in tomato paste...after we finally appeased the village kids with enough stories and the photos Tricia had printed for them so that they would leave so we could cook! People just walk right in to hang out and chat, and whatever time of day. It's very different.

We talked for a bit after dinner then rigged up a mosquito net and some sleeping pads on the floor for me and I was out like a light. Friday morning we had a new fave food of mine: oatmeal with peanut butter in it. SO. GOOD. We visited one of Tricia's host family's and then wandered about the village. I saw the kids 'in class', the Methodist Church, and then we returned to her hut to lay on the floor and try to stop sweating. It was 9am. A bit later we grabbed the powdered leche and sugar and headed back up to the central rancho where some women were gathered to teach me how to toast cacao. Mostly, you just put it all in a big pot and heat it over fire for several hours. So they shared all the latest 'bochinche' (gossip) and I tried to follow along. I think I caught 30% of the convo since it was all poor Spanish muddled together with the indigenous Ngobere language, if not just straight up Ngobere.

Tricia and I left for a bit to make lunch then returned just as the cacao was coming off the fire. Step 2 is to crack the shells without smooshing the bean inside and put the bean in a big bowl. We did this forever. Well over an hour. And there were 6 of us at it constantly, with some kids helping out a bit too. Soooo many children, everywhere. And most of the moms are much younger than I am, since in Ngobe communities it is common that girls are promised to a boy at around 6th grade. Formal religious or legal weddings are actually quite rare in Ngobe communities I guess.

After shelling the beans we hand ground them into what looks like chocolate sauce, but since it is straight cacao is much more bitter, like espresso. We took a little of the straight cacao and I mixed in the sugar and leche until we thought we had it sweet enough then rolled it into little balls. The women then cut down a palm branch and stripped the leaves from the stem, cut the stem into 4 inch sections and put that in the chocolate balls as toothpicks. Each was sold to someone in town for 25 cents. They were so good. Very dark, very rich. They had us bring small bricks of the cacao back to Panama City with us to sell here and I'm going to buy one for my host mom to cook something with.

We returned to the hut after the cacao lesson so that I could take a nap, then made dinner. After dinner it was off to Arturo's house so Tricia could nail down plans for her latrine building next week. She has a group of engineering friends coming to help build 2 latrines next weekend for 2 weeks and since she was leaving with me to return to panama city, (she's helping teach my tech classes this week) needed to get everything squared away before she left. Finally it was time for movie night in the hammock.

Saturday was an epic jungle adventure with the water committee. We had 4 men, 3 women, and 2 boys in our party with Tricia and I. The guys were pretty sure they had found a new 'ojo de agua' or source of water in the ground and wanted us to see it. The trail across the tended farmland quickly became the narrow trail through overgrown jungle became trudging through mid calf deep mud (I lost my shoes twice but recovered them both times!) became waiting for the guys to forge a pathway by using their machetes to 'chopear' through plant life well over our heads.

Eventually we got the spot where they made a clearing and then starting digging with the machetes until we found water. It didn't take too long and the toughest thing for me was finding somewhere to stand where I wouldn't sink. I really need to buy rubber boots. It's on the top of the to do list. Tricia and I chatted with the women while the guys disappeared off to find their other ojo. We talked about animals and ended up explaining the concept of zoos and time zones to them- a a true moment of informal learning as it's called in PC world. The guys returned and we were back at the trail. This one had a great view and I could even see the Carribbean way off in the distance.

To head back we hiked a bit further to the edge of a grazing pasture and then had to army crawl in the mud under the barbed wire fence and then wandered back across the pasture to town. Surprising to say, I think that was the first time this Nebraska girl has been in the middle of a herd of cattle. The very last part we had to cross was a drainage ditch with chunks of logs we had to frogger across. I did well. Until about 2/3 across, and then I slipped. SO MUDDY. And I smelled like cow poop. This meant an immediate shower (Tricia does have some running water) before lunch. I have a pair of pants and shoes waiting for an epic scrub down sometime this week. They're safely molding in plastic right now.

After lunch we pasear'ed (it means to wander around and visit with neighbors) to make sure everything was on task for the build weeks coming up. Then is was defs hammock time. The rest of the day was pretty chill and we went to bed fairly early. Sunday we got up at 6 to finish packing, cleaning, and to have breakfast before Willy left at 8am. We dropped off our stuff at a hostel in Bocas and used the internet there for a quick second before catching a bus to Bocas del Drago (yea, it means Mouths of the Dragon) where we found Playa Estrella, or Starfish Beach. It didn't get that name without reason! Pictures are coming up on facebook soon, I promise!

We were back to Bocas by early afternoon to catch the boat back to Almirante to take a taxi to the bus to go back to David. Whew. Discovered just how painfully sunburned I was when I tried to put my backpack on after I get off in David. Arms, legs, feet, chest, back, and face. Oh yea. Most of it was fine within 24 hours. Except the bright shiny super pale vulnerable skin in the middle of my back. That has defs started to blister. Owie. But, my fault for not remembering to reapply sunscreen. :(
In David I spent the night catching up on the visits of other volunteers and took another great hot shower. It did wonders for pulling the heat out of some of my sunburn. I crashed early to spend some valuable time sleeping on a real mattress. Monday morning we got up at 8, grabbed some scrambled eggs at a fonda and were back on the megabus for Panama City about 10.30. We got to watch Red Tails for a movie! I mean, it was in Spanish but a dec movie nonetheless. However, the video went out right before the last big fight so I don't know what happened. By the sound I think there was some flying, explosions, and someone died, but that's all I know. Lemme know if one of you has a plot synopsis!

We didn't remind the driver we needed to get off at El Espino and so as we passed our stop someone ran down to talk to him, and we ended up getting off near La Chorrera and walking a bit back down the highway to a bridge to cross it to get a bus BACK to our stop. This was a Diablo Rojo (a highly decorated school bus known for its crazy music and lights that are literally named Red Devils) where we smashed ourselves and our stuff onto standing in the aisles because everyone was already 3 to a seat. Thank god it was a short trip. At El Espino we needed to catch a chiva, but it was basically rush hour (6pm) so everything was really full and again, I was in a group of gringos with a ton of crap. After about an hour, we got frustrated and tried to start flagging down taxis, but even that was tough. Everyone wanted to return to Panama City to call it a day rather than to head out to Santa Rita. Finally I got one and we piled SIX of us and our stuff into it. I am now so much closer to my EH group, haha.

In our desperation to get back to SR, we forgot to negotiate our price up front and he charged us $2/each for the ride, which is totally absurd for the amount of people we had, but we're gringos so we get ripped off a lot. Know better for next time. When I got home my host mom was out so I went to my host grandmas and hung out there for a bit and then my...cousin? Eventually took me home to unpack and heat up my dinner.

Tuesday is another day in the PC office getting more vaccines (I've had hep A and typhoid thus far, I don't think I am getting any more tomorrow, thank goodness!), getting info sessions on sexual assault response and tropical diseases (should be lots of fun) and then interviews with our APCD (program director) about our visit and what we're thinking for our own personal site preferences.

Whew, this post is a doozy. If you've stuck it out this long, congrats. I like you a lot and think you rock. Until next time,

Peace, love, and gaff tape.

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